A Wok With Versatility and Comfort

Christopher Kimball, the food expert who left America’s Test Kitchen and later founded Milk Street, a multimedia company focused on cooking instruction, is introducing a line of cookware. He has developed utensils with Kuhn Rikon, a Swiss company. The carbon steel wok caught my eye, and after taking it for a spin on my gas range I can report that it’s worth adding to the kitchen arsenal. Think of it more as a sauté pan. Its flat bottom lets it sit reliably on the burner grate, it’s well-balanced, the handle stays cool and the weight is not a burden. Once you work your way through Mr. Kimball’s protocol for an initial seasoning, cleaning is a breeze: Christopher Kimball for Kuhn Rikon Collection 5-quart covered wok skillet, $69.95; wok tools $18 each, from surlatable.com.

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